Four Days Between Sky and Water

Argentina travel journal — from the clouds of El Chaltén to the roar of Iguazú Falls, four remarkable days between sky and water.

We’ve been back from Argentina for a few days. I am currently coping OK with the remnants of the jet lag. I feel sleepy in the late afternoon, but I am not sure that’s very unusual. I should get up and have a walk; instead, I make more coffee.

I wrote about the first part of the trip, which was centred on Buenos Aires, and before it all becomes a distant memory, I want to write about the second part of the holiday.

This second week was much less urban and more about discovering two different regions. At one end, we were on the border with Chile; at the other, with Brazil. Both were incredible. If we include the first part of our trip, it was three holidays in one. I can’t pick a favourite place, as they were all so different.

Monday, 15 September 2025 — Condors, Clouds and a Canine Companion

Rugged Patagonian landscape near El Chaltén showing rocky outcrops and golden grassland in the foreground, with snow-capped mountain peaks visible in the distance under an overcast sky, and a small green-roofed building in the valley
A solitary refuge stands dwarfed by the dramatic Patagonian wilderness near El Chaltén, where ancient rock formations meet snow-dusted peaks in Argentina’s trekking capital.

We spent the day exploring Los Glaciares National Park from El Calafate. After an early start and a coffee stop, we hiked up a hill near El Chaltén for views that were mostly hidden by low cloud but still impressive. I was nervous about the climb but glad I didn’t skip it. Rain arrived for our visit to Chorrillo del Salto waterfall, and we ate our hotel’s packed lunch in a hostel while others took the set meal. Back in town, I had another excellent steak while one of the local dogs rested his chin on my leg until my plate was empty — perfectly normal here, if unimaginable at home.

My diary of the day is recorded at Blipfoto.

Tuesday, 16 September 2025 — Early Flights and Empty Lounges

Aerolíneas Argentinas aircraft parked at gate with jet bridge attached at Aeroparque Jorge Newbery, with ground crew and service vehicles on the tarmac, Buenos Aires city skyline visible in the background under clear skies
An Aerolíneas Argentinas jet receives attention from ground crew at Aeroparque Jorge Newbery

The alarm went off at 5 a.m. for a long travel day from El Calafate to Buenos Aires and on to Iguazú. Check-in opened at 7 a.m. for the only flight of the morning, followed by a cramped plane, repeated security checks and a crowded lounge during the connection. Our second flight was delayed but arrived by sunset. The Iguazú Falls Hotel and Spa was beautiful, though its dinner buffet — served oddly in a conference hall — proved more quantity than quality. The mosquitoes stayed away, so our repellents were unnecessary.

I wrote more about today on Blipfoto.

Wednesday, 17 September 2025 — Iguazú: The Power and the Falls

Panoramic view of Iguaçu Falls with multiple cascading waterfalls creating massive spray, viewing platforms filled with tourists extending into the river surrounded by lush green subtropical forest under clear blue skies
Visitors crowd the walkways jutting into the Iguaçu River for a front-row seat to one of nature’s most spectacular performances, where hundreds of cascades thunder into the gorge below at Brazil’s magnificent Iguaçu National Park.

We spent the day at the Iguazú Falls on both sides of the border. Our tour took us first to Brazil for the sweeping views and then across to Argentina for the Gran Aventura boat ride that drenched us completely but was thrilling nonetheless. The ecological train and Devil’s Throat walkway at the end were unforgettable. That night we took a taxi into Puerto Iguazú, had steak and Malbec, and arranged our return by WhatsApp — a surprisingly efficient local system — before finishing the day with cocktails at the hotel when wine wasn’t available by the glass.

At one point, we ordered sandwiches that turned out to be hamburgers, and that’s noted in my diary.

Thursday, 18 September 2025 — Three Countries, Two Beers, One Perfect Pizza

Viewing platform at Hito Tres Fronteras with three cylindrical monuments painted in the colours of Argentina, Paraguay, and Brazil, overlooking the confluence of rivers with a cable-stayed bridge and observation wheel visible in the distance under blue skies
Colourful monuments representing Argentina, Paraguay, and Brazil mark the tri-border area at Hito Tres Fronteras, where the Iguazú and Paraná rivers converge to create one of South America’s most unique geographical meeting points.

We had a relaxed morning before visiting the Triple Frontera, where Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay meet. From the Argentinian obelisk, we looked across the rivers to the other two countries, then enjoyed beers and the view from a nearby restaurant. By afternoon, we were flying back to Buenos Aires, and my luggage arrived on the carousel. For our final evening, we joined the pizza queues on Corrientes Avenue and found a table at Güerrín, sharing a half-and-half pizza — olives and peppers on one side, pepperoni on the other — a fitting end to the trip.

Thursday’s diary is on Blipfoto.

I’m still trying to process the holiday. There was so much involved. We didn’t depart until a Monday, after finishing work on a Friday. I wish we’d been bolder and taken the late plane on the Friday. Assuming there were no delays, we’d have had three extra days. Who knows what gems we might have discovered?