Four Days Between Sky and Water

Argentina travel journal — from the clouds of El Chaltén to the roar of Iguazú Falls, four remarkable days between sky and water.

We’ve been back from Argentina for a few days. I am currently coping OK with the remnants of the jet lag. I feel sleepy in the late afternoon, but I am not sure that’s very unusual. I should get up and have a walk; instead, I make more coffee.

I wrote about the first part of the trip, which was centred on Buenos Aires, and before it all becomes a distant memory, I want to write about the second part of the holiday.

This second week was much less urban and more about discovering two different regions. At one end, we were on the border with Chile; at the other, with Brazil. Both were incredible. If we include the first part of our trip, it was three holidays in one. I can’t pick a favourite place, as they were all so different.

Monday, 15 September 2025 — Condors, Clouds and a Canine Companion

Rugged Patagonian landscape near El Chaltén showing rocky outcrops and golden grassland in the foreground, with snow-capped mountain peaks visible in the distance under an overcast sky, and a small green-roofed building in the valley
A solitary refuge stands dwarfed by the dramatic Patagonian wilderness near El Chaltén, where ancient rock formations meet snow-dusted peaks in Argentina’s trekking capital.

We spent the day exploring Los Glaciares National Park from El Calafate. After an early start and a coffee stop, we hiked up a hill near El Chaltén for views that were mostly hidden by low cloud but still impressive. I was nervous about the climb but glad I didn’t skip it. Rain arrived for our visit to Chorrillo del Salto waterfall, and we ate our hotel’s packed lunch in a hostel while others took the set meal. Back in town, I had another excellent steak while one of the local dogs rested his chin on my leg until my plate was empty — perfectly normal here, if unimaginable at home.

My diary of the day is recorded at Blipfoto.

Tuesday, 16 September 2025 — Early Flights and Empty Lounges

Aerolíneas Argentinas aircraft parked at gate with jet bridge attached at Aeroparque Jorge Newbery, with ground crew and service vehicles on the tarmac, Buenos Aires city skyline visible in the background under clear skies
An Aerolíneas Argentinas jet receives attention from ground crew at Aeroparque Jorge Newbery

The alarm went off at 5 a.m. for a long travel day from El Calafate to Buenos Aires and on to Iguazú. Check-in opened at 7 a.m. for the only flight of the morning, followed by a cramped plane, repeated security checks and a crowded lounge during the connection. Our second flight was delayed but arrived by sunset. The Iguazú Falls Hotel and Spa was beautiful, though its dinner buffet — served oddly in a conference hall — proved more quantity than quality. The mosquitoes stayed away, so our repellents were unnecessary.

I wrote more about today on Blipfoto.

Wednesday, 17 September 2025 — Iguazú: The Power and the Falls

Panoramic view of Iguaçu Falls with multiple cascading waterfalls creating massive spray, viewing platforms filled with tourists extending into the river surrounded by lush green subtropical forest under clear blue skies
Visitors crowd the walkways jutting into the Iguaçu River for a front-row seat to one of nature’s most spectacular performances, where hundreds of cascades thunder into the gorge below at Brazil’s magnificent Iguaçu National Park.

We spent the day at the Iguazú Falls on both sides of the border. Our tour took us first to Brazil for the sweeping views and then across to Argentina for the Gran Aventura boat ride that drenched us completely but was thrilling nonetheless. The ecological train and Devil’s Throat walkway at the end were unforgettable. That night we took a taxi into Puerto Iguazú, had steak and Malbec, and arranged our return by WhatsApp — a surprisingly efficient local system — before finishing the day with cocktails at the hotel when wine wasn’t available by the glass.

At one point, we ordered sandwiches that turned out to be hamburgers, and that’s noted in my diary.

Thursday, 18 September 2025 — Three Countries, Two Beers, One Perfect Pizza

Viewing platform at Hito Tres Fronteras with three cylindrical monuments painted in the colours of Argentina, Paraguay, and Brazil, overlooking the confluence of rivers with a cable-stayed bridge and observation wheel visible in the distance under blue skies
Colourful monuments representing Argentina, Paraguay, and Brazil mark the tri-border area at Hito Tres Fronteras, where the Iguazú and Paraná rivers converge to create one of South America’s most unique geographical meeting points.

We had a relaxed morning before visiting the Triple Frontera, where Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay meet. From the Argentinian obelisk, we looked across the rivers to the other two countries, then enjoyed beers and the view from a nearby restaurant. By afternoon, we were flying back to Buenos Aires, and my luggage arrived on the carousel. For our final evening, we joined the pizza queues on Corrientes Avenue and found a table at Güerrín, sharing a half-and-half pizza — olives and peppers on one side, pepperoni on the other — a fitting end to the trip.

Thursday’s diary is on Blipfoto.

I’m still trying to process the holiday. There was so much involved. We didn’t depart until a Monday, after finishing work on a Friday. I wish we’d been bolder and taken the late plane on the Friday. Assuming there were no delays, we’d have had three extra days. Who knows what gems we might have discovered?

Weeknotes #139: missed views, found falls

Adventures, airports, waterfalls, and re-entry — travel tales beautifully grounded.

Week commencing Monday, 15 September 2025

Tour boat full of tourists wearing orange life jackets approaches the base of Iguazu Falls, with massive waterfalls cascading over tiered basalt cliffs surrounded by lush green vegetation and mist rising from the churning water below
Tourists aboard a boat excursion approach the thundering cascades of Iguazu Falls on the Argentina-Brazil border, where getting soaked is not just likely—it’s the entire point.

Quantified Self

  • This week: Stand 6/7; Exercise 4/7 and Move 6/7. (76 %). Total steps: 77,891

Life

  • The week started back in a Patagonian national park with a hike up for a view that was lost in the clouds. The other English speaker on the bus didn’t seem that interested in the tour.
  • In the evening, I ate my steak while one of the local strays laid his head on my lap for as long as the steak was on my plate. As soon as it was gone, he lost interest. Nobody seemed concerned. Can you imagine the health-and-safety implications in the UK?
  • Tuesday was a fly day: fly back to Buenos Aires but don’t leave the airport before taking off again bound for Iguazú. The views from El Calafate Airport were great. In Buenos Aires the lounge was packed, and it was dark by the time we landed in the north.
  • PY’s ‘bucket list’ used to include a trip to see the Iguazú Falls. It’s not on the list anymore as we crossed it off on Wednesday.
  • So much to say about the majesty of the falls: panoramics from Brazil, close-up encounters in Argentina. The boat ride, or ‘Grand Adventure’, was stunning, and you really appreciate the power of the cascades.
  • My diary entry for Thursday’s return to Buenos Aires is entitled Three countries, two beers, one perfect pizza. The Tripoint is very impressive, the restaurant with the river views was a find I wish we’d made a day earlier, and the pizza experience at Pizzería Güerrín on Corrientes Avenue seemed authentic.
  • Friday was a return flight. Iberia seats were more exposed to the aisle so I didn’t sleep well. Or maybe it was the hours of turbulence that kept me awake. I was very ready for the landing.
  • Related, on Saturday morning we were almost first in the lounge and first in the shower queue. I had a little bottle of plane wine on the last leg of the holiday back to London, even though it was only 10 a.m. It felt like yesterday.
  • Sunday brought a gentle re-entry to London life. In a bid to keep busy, we decided to visit the This is Oxford Street event, where the street was closed to traffic and given over to music, food, fashion pop-ups, and other entertainment — a glimpse of what full pedestrianisation might mean.
  • Related, if this is what it means, it’ll be a bonanza for the retailers: the place was packed.

Media

  • I finished The Janson Directive and can confirm that it was meaty enough that the other books were unnecessary baggage.

Weeknotes #138: nothing lost but my heart

Lost luggage, perfect steaks, tango nights, glaciers, and joyful discovery.

Week commencing Monday, 8 September 2025

Large living sculpture spelling 'BA' covered in dense green vegetation and plants, with person - the author - standing between letters in Buenos Aires city centre, buildings and blue sky in the background.
Proof that Buenos Aires is literally growing on you.

Quantified Self

  • This week: Stand 7/7; Exercise 6/7 and Move 7/7. (96%). Holiday time. Total steps: 105,183

Life

  • We’d done twilight check-in. We woke at 3 am. All was on plan until the email explained our first flight (to Madrid) was cancelled and everything had to be changed. We opted not to go back home, but spending an entire day at Heathrow was harder than I expected, even with lounge access.
  • Related, I imagine if I were in corporate espionage, I’d sit in the BA lounge listening to all the calls.
  • The flight stopped in Rio, where most of the passengers disembarked, while only a few continued. Somebody had left duty-free items in the overhead locker above me, and they had to be removed before we could depart.
  • At baggage collection, it soon became clear that I wasn’t going to get a suitcase. I was remarkably calm. They were remarkably good at getting it to me.
  • Day one: after clothes shopping, dinner was Parrilla Don Julio, a steak restaurant ranked number 10 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2024. It’s obvious why. This will not be a meat-free holiday.
  • On day two, even though we’d just arrived, we crossed the Río de la Plata to Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay. Easy to travel. Beautiful old town.
  • Thursday: a tourist bus ticket took us to La Boca, specifically El Caminito, the little street that has become one of Buenos Aires’s most distinctive sights. The corrugated-iron houses, splashed in bright reds, yellows and blues, felt like they had been painted to lift the mood of anyone passing by.
  • Dinner was a tango show at La Ventana — powerful, elegant dancers paired with live musicians, singers and even bursts of Argentine folk. We were surprised by the Don’t Cry for Me Argentina portions, having been told the country didn’t really take Andrew Lloyd Webber’s interpretation of its history to heart.
  • Birthday Friday was a lot of great things, but the chef’s counter at Fogón Asado — a twist on Argentina’s traditional barbecue, with about ten guests seated around the open fire as each cut of meat is prepared in front of us — was a real highlight treat. It’s very up close and personal with the chef and the sommelier. Luckily, they were both lovely.
  • Saturday: a flight south where my luggage kept pace with me. It wasn’t beef here; it was lamb.
  • The week ended with Los Glaciares National Park in Argentinian Patagonia. Stunning.
  • If travel teaches anything, it’s that a lost suitcase is just the first chapter of a much better tale. Argentina might have stolen my heart.

Media

  • After boarding, before sleeping, I watched The Salt Path and The Amateur. They passed a few hours of the flight to Buenos Aires.
  • I am not reading as much on this holiday as I had assumed. On the 14-hour flight I read nothing. At least I’ve started The Janson Directive, and it’s a meaty enough book that it might last the trip and mean the other books were unnecessary baggage.

Buenos Aires: Four Days, Four Stories

What began in chaos turned into a celebration of Argentina’s food, warmth and effortless charm — proof that even the most delayed journeys can lead to perfect adventures.

It’s always been a goal of mine to visit South America, but I’ve never managed it until now. Somehow, we acquired enough Avios points for a return flight to Argentina and so booked a trip that would allow us to explore the country — from the vast, bustling capital city, south to the glaciers and north to the hot, humid waterfalls.

This week we started the journey, and I kept a diary: my own anthology of travel tales. Unfortunately, the collection opened with delayed flights and missing luggage, but it quickly morphed into steak and fine wine. Buenos Aires, it turns out, rewards patience with Malbec and charm in roughly equal measure.

Day One: Lost Luggage, Found Malbec

Waterfront view of Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires, showing modern high-rise apartment buildings along the yacht-filled docklands, with a pedestrian promenade in the foreground under clear blue skies
Buenos Aires’ transformed docklands meet modern luxury.

The journey began with more drama than you really want when flying. British Airways cancelled, rebooked, and generally conspired to keep us in Heathrow longer than any sane traveller should be. By the time we reached Buenos Aires, my bags had apparently decided to see the world on their own schedule. But a bottle (or two) of Argentine red at, officially, one of the world’s best restaurants did wonders for morale. I’m not saying wine solved everything, but it certainly softened the edges. Somewhere between The Salt Path on the in-flight entertainment and late-night Buenos Aires jet lag, I started to think this trip was worth the chaos.

Read more about the day on my Blipfoto diary.

Day Two: Ferry Nice Day Out!

Cobblestone street in Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay, with colonial-era buildings, a white lighthouse visible in the distance, bare winter trees, and parked motorcycles under clear blue skies
Lighthouse photobombs a perfectly good street scene.

As the second proper day dawned, we headed for the Río de la Plata and a day trip across to Uruguay. The Buquebus terminal was far slicker than the internet had led us to believe, and passport control was remarkably more efficient than the tales you can read elsewhere. Colonia del Sacramento turned out to be all cobbles, calm and colonial charm — the sort of place that exists to make Instagram jealous (but I was so taken with the place I didn’t post a picture). We paid for the hotel pick-up, only to discover later it would have been fine (and cheaper) to walk. Consider this information a small donation to your travel guide. In the evening, we discovered the vibrant energy of Avenida Corrientes and Buenos Aires’ theatre district. And no, we didn’t queue for tickets for a midnight performance, but next time we just might.

The diary chronicles our day trip to Uruguay.

Day Three: Buses, Bonhomie and Buenos Aires’ Brightest Streets

Colourful buildings in El Caminito, Buenos Aires, featuring vibrant blue, yellow, red, and green corrugated metal facades, with life-sized tango dancer figures on balconies, outdoor café seating with red chairs, and tourists exploring the famous street
Corrugated iron never looked this fabulous.

We gave our feet a break and let the tourist bus do the work — an unexpectedly efficient way to see a city that sprawls as confidently as Buenos Aires. From the leafy calm of Palermo to the bright murals of La Boca, we ticked off the postcard highlights without ever breaking a sweat. Every stop offered something different: the solemn beauty of Recoleta Cemetery, the grandeur of the Teatro Colón, and the kind of boulevards that make you wonder if Paris might have borrowed a few ideas from here rather than the other way around. It was the perfect combination of adventure and sightseeing, capped off with a tango show that had enough energy to power Greater Buenos Aires’ ten million people.

The diary has more about the visit to El Caminito, Recoleta Cemetery, the Colón Theatre and La Ventana.

Day Four: The Fire, the Feast and the Fifteenth Course

Chef slicing perfectly cooked medium-rare steak on a wooden board at Fogón Asado's chef's counter in Buenos Aires, with plated portions of grilled meat and vibrant yellow sauce arranged on white plates in the foreground
Front-row seats to carnivore’s dream show.

The finale of this leg of the trip came, appropriately, with fire. My birthday dinner turned into a culinary marathon that blurred the line between “meal” and “endurance event”. Fifteen courses later, I concluded that Argentine chefs possess brilliance, an ability to withstand the heat of a volcano, and a slight disregard for the human capacity to eat perfectly cooked meat. Earlier, there was time for a little history: the grandeur of the El Ateneo bookshop, the stories of Plaza de Mayo, and a reminder that Argentina’s beauty is matched only by its complexity.

The diary for the fourth day of our adventure is on Blipfoto.

We ended the first leg of this trip full — of food, of stories, and of gratitude for every minor inconvenience that somehow made the whole thing better. Because if travel teaches anything, it’s that a lost suitcase is just the first chapter of a much better tale.

Tomorrow we’re heading south. There’s so much more to explore in Buenos Aires. We’ll be back, briefly, next week.

Weeknotes #133: Achievement unlocked and other Spanish adventures

Exploring Basque culture, art, coastlines, and football—memorable Spanish adventures.

Week commencing Monday, 4 August 2025

Quantified Self

  • This week: Stand /7; Exercise /7 and Move /7 (%). Morning walks: 0/4 (days in the office don’t count). Office days: 1/5. Total steps: 125,093

Life

  • We spent Monday acclimatising to Bilbao; it’s a lovely city. Although a chunk of the day was spent trying to acquire tickets for a trip out on Tuesday. We found the bus station, saw the queues, and were directed straight to a window where nobody was waiting. It was our lucky day.
  • Achievement unlocked: I’ve always wanted to visit Bilbao’s Guggenheim Museum. It’s the reason I suggested adding this bit to our trip. It’s renowned for its revolutionary titanium-clad architecture designed by Frank Gehry that has become an iconic symbol of the city’s urban regeneration. It did not disappoint.
  • More surprisingly, the exhibitions were every bit as impressive. I usually get quite impatient in galleries, but I could have stayed longer.
  • The exhibition featuring works by the renowned American conceptual artist Barbara Kruger, known for her provocative text-based art, was pretty impressive.
  • Tuesday, we took the bus to the beautiful seaside resort of San Sebastián. A leisurely stroll along La Concha Bay culminated at “El Peine del Viento” (The Comb of the Wind), Eduardo Chillida’s iconic trio of nine-tonne steel sculptures anchored into the rocks. A beautiful walk in the sun.
  • On the return walk, a tinto de verano on the terrace of a tennis club bar called Wimbledon was very welcome in the heat. Before the return bus trip, we tried a Gilda, a classic Basque pintxo of a green olive, a salted anchovy fillet, and one or two pickled chilli peppers, on bread. I looked up the name: it’s named after the 1946 film Gilda, starring Rita Hayworth. The pintxo is said to embody similar characteristics—green (guindilla), salty (anchovy), and a little spicy—just like the film character.
  • On Wednesday, PY and I did a half-day tour: Bizkaia Bridge (the historic transporter bridge spanning the Nervión River), Gaztelugatxe (views of an island linked to dry land by a two-arch bridge known as Dragonstone in Game of Thrones), Bermeo (authentic Basque fishing village), and Gernika (home to the sacred tree where Basque assemblies have met for centuries and Picasso’s Guernica commemorating the 1937 bombing).
  • The famous Tree of Guernica is depicted in the stained-glass ceiling in the Assembly House (Casa de las Juntas). It’s one of the most impressive stained-glass works I’ve seen, and you have to look up.
  • When we returned to Bilbao, we took the Artxanda Funicular to the summit of Artxanda Mountain for the views over the city.
  • On our last morning, Pete, Mark, and I went on a tour of Athletic Club Bilbao’s stadium and museum. The tour is a behind-the-scenes look at its impressive architecture, history, and the pride the city takes in its team, with the highlight being the dramatic moment of stepping out onto the pitch, where the sweeping stands rise around you and you get a player’s-eye view of the arena. It must be pretty intimidating for visiting teams.
  • When we returned to the UK, the weather matched what we’d experienced on holiday, so we spent three days walking and relaxing.

Media

  • Still managing to stay mostly off social media, except for a couple of Instagram posts; no television in Spain (although a little when we got back). I completed Richard Osman’s The Last Devil to Die, which is another lovely book—if you can ignore the murder—in the Thursday Murder Club series.
  • I also completed Off the Rails, number eight in the Peculiar Crimes Unit books. When I started it, I realised I’d missed number seven, so that was ordered while I was away, and I’m now reading the origin of the Mr Fox story.

Weeknotes #132: discovering Spain

Joyful travels through Spain with friends, food, wine, and discovery.

Week commencing Monday, 28 July 2025

Quantified Self

  • This week: Stand 7/7; Exercise 4/7 and Move 7/7. (86%). Morning walks: 0/2 (days in the office don’t count). Office days 1/2. Total steps: 89,762

Life

  • Tuesday was my last day before a week in Spain. I was in the office for a workshop on a big new project. I won’t be involved very much, but I did have some input into the planning. I suspect this will progress quickly while I am away.
  • Home to pack and head to the airport. PY had some work to do before we left, which meant we arrived later than I’d imagined. We stayed at the Thistle hotel near the autonomous pods ahead of an early flight.
  • R&M were also staying nearby. Around 9pm they joined us for dinner in the restaurant with (almost) a view of the runway.
  • Next morning, the flight was at 7:50am, arriving in Madrid just before lunch. E’s suitcase didn’t appear on the carousel at arrivals, but thanks to AirTags, we knew it was in the airport. Very little help from the airport staff, but it appeared as soon as the next flight was loaded onto the luggage belt.
  • Thankfully, we’d factored in a long time between arrival and the train, so – when we got to the station – there was time for a refreshing Spanish beer.
  • The train to ‘Valladolid – Campo Grande’ was fast and smooth. The hotel turned out to be a very short walk from the station.
  • The rest of the day was spent exploring. The canapés (tapas) we had at Jero Catedral are highly recommended.
  • We walked 8 miles around Valladolid on Thursday: the riverside walk was wonderful, there’s even a small manmade beach on the riverbank, and every food stop along the way was delicious. The squid ink risotto at Hasta la Peineta taberna was very tasty.
  • In the late afternoon, we were the only six people on the hop-on, hop-off sightseeing bus. We didn’t hop off.
  • It was Pete’s birthday. The meat at Vinotinto for his birthday dinner was perfectly prepared. The octopus dish was excellent.
  • E took us to a cocktail bar to end the evening. La Sastrería is sewing-themed. It’s an amazing place in a hidden arcade. Look out for it if you are ever in town.
  • Friday was Pete’s gift day. Abadía Retuerta is a stunning vineyard with the most beautiful hotel and spa on site. Sadly, we only did the tour and wine tasting, but if you take the virtual tour you will see how stunning the monastery’s conversion into a hotel has been. I raved about the Tempranillo and decided to splurge on a bottle. It may be the most expensive wine I’ve ever bought.
  • Saturday, to León. The flaming chorizo tapas were a food highlight, the bus tour was a welcome break from walking through the tourist crowds, and the Convento de San Marcos (Parador de León) was another very impressive convent-to-hotel conversion. The city had a very touristy feel.
  • Sunday, time to pack and move to Bilbao, which feels like a much bigger city than either Valladolid or León.

Media

  • I’m avoiding social media and television while on this holiday. I have finished reading The Wrong Hands, a crime thriller that had me hooked. I haven’t read the first in the series, but I am thinking of getting it.

Weeknotes #91: holiday and a previously unvisited country

Enjoyable experiences in Paleokastritsa and crime dramas explored.

Week commencing Monday, 14 October 2024

Quantified Self

  • This week: Stand 7/7; Exercise 7/7 and Move 7/7. (100%). No office days as I am on vacation. Total steps: 92,938

Life

  • A week in Paleokastritsa. The hotel might be dated, but the weather was hotter than expected; the food was great and the view wonderful.
  • Corfu Town was a comfortable bus ride away. The Old Town has been a World Heritage Site by UNESCO since 2007. We were served a kumquat liqueur at the end of the meal: a strong-flavoured, sweet orange-coloured drink which we both thought was delicious.
  • The donkey trail was very hard going, but the view from the top was worth the pain. Down was a lot easier than I imagined.
  • A day trip to Albania ticked off another country. The National Park of Butrint was amazing. Another UNESCO World Heritage site.
  • On Friday, the waters were too choppy for a boat but lovely views. Around 4pm we set off for the climb to Paleokastritsa Monastery. It’s on a cliff at the end of the bay. We saw a cross in the distance on the edge of the cliff. We decided to take a look and made our way along the path. I feel modern health and safety rules would have the path improved and add railings. The view was lovely but debatable if it was worth the effort.
  • The bar on Saturday afternoon was a hundred steps down to a rocky outcrop. The beer was nice, but I couldn’t shake the feeling I’d drop something over the edge.
  • The Sunday morning minibus had pickups in some lovely areas down winding roads. They felt a bit cut off to me.
  • The return flight was late, but home before 5pm meant we had an evening. We kept the holiday vibe with a kebab.

Media

Thanksgiving 2004

Happy thanksgiving to those passing by.

I trust all my American friends and colleagues enjoyed their Thanksgiving. In previous years I have looked at what Thanksgiving really is all about (see here) but this year I thought I would look how you were all celebrating by checking the Flickr tags. All the tags representing Thanksgiving seem to be about food or family – which I think seems like a pretty good notion to me.

Happy Thanksgiving

In some parts of the world, today is a holiday.

I’ve worked for American companies for a few years and never really grasped what the thanksgiving holiday was all about (apart from some very obvious things). This year I actually started to look it up:

The first Thanksgiving was celebrated between the Pilgrims and the Indians in 1621. That first feast was a three day affair. Life for the early settlers was difficult. The fall harvest was time for celebration. It was also a time of prayer, thanking God for a good crop. The Pilgrims and the Indians created a huge feast including a wide variety of animals and fowl, as well as fruits and vegetables from the fall harvest. This early celebration was the start of today’s holiday celebration. Like then, we celebrate with a huge feast. [Source: holidayinsights.com]

I would like to wish anybody passing by a very happy holiday.

Of course there is always an alternative view.